A ladder that is set up properly is far less likely to hurt you. Getting a ladder or stepladder into the right position is what makes it safe to climb.
In this module, you will learn how to:
Before you reach for a ladder, ask:
Not every ladder is a simple leaning ladder or stepladder. Telescopic ladders slide out section by section and lock at each rung, so they pack down small. Combination or multi-purpose ladders can be set up as a leaning ladder, a stepladder or a platform. Both types bring their own risks. On a telescopic ladder, every section must be fully extended and locked; a section that has not locked can collapse when you put your weight on it.
Check each lock or indicator before you climb, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for retracting it, because fingers can be trapped as sections slide down. On a combination ladder, check that every hinge and locking device is fully engaged for the configuration you are using, and that the feet are in the right position. Buy these ladders only from reputable suppliers, made to the recognised standard, and check them before every use, just like any other ladder.
Step stools, kick stools and hop-ups are useful for reaching high shelves or ceilings, but a fall from even a single step can break a wrist or cause a head injury, especially onto a hard floor. Use only equipment made for the purpose, in good condition and stable on the floor. Check the feet or base are not damaged, and the platform is not cracked or slippery. Never use a chair, a box, a desk, a bin or a stack of materials to stand on.
They are not designed to take a person's weight safely, and they can tip or collapse without warning. Keep the task short, carry only light items, and keep your body centred over the step rather than stretching. If you need to reach further, step down and move the equipment. If you find yourself using small steps for long periods, ask whether a podium or a different way of working would be safer.
People have been badly hurt, and some killed, climbing onto van roofs to load ladders. Nobody should stand on a van roof. Use a system that lets ladders be loaded and unloaded from the ground, such as a drop-down roof rack.
A ladder should stand on ground that is firm, level and clean.
A leaning ladder must be set at an angle of 75 degrees. To get it right, use the one in four rule: one unit out from the wall for every four units up.
For example, if the ladder rests against the wall four metres up, its foot should be one metre out from the wall.
Many ladders have an angle indicator marked on the stile to help. If you cannot set up the ladder at 75 degrees, do not use it.
The 75 degree angle is not a rule that bends. Sometimes the space available makes it impossible to set the ladder correctly, perhaps because a wall, a fence or a drop is in the way at the foot, or because there is nothing strong for the top to rest against. In those situations the ladder must not be used at all. Setting it steeper makes it more likely to tip backwards, and setting it flatter makes the foot more likely to slide out.
There is only one exception: a ladder that is entirely secure in its own right, such as a ladder fixed into and forming part of a scaffold structure. For everything else, stop and choose other access equipment, such as a mobile tower or podium steps.
Many accidents happen because a ladder was not secured. Use these methods in order, moving down only when the one above is not possible:
Stairwells are among the most awkward places to work at height. The floor is not level, the drop is greater than it looks, and other people may need to use the stairs. A leaning ladder or stepladder must never be balanced with one foot on a step and the other packed up with books, boxes or offcuts. Use equipment designed for stairs, such as a purpose-made stair levelling device, a stair platform, or a ladder that can be adjusted to the step heights.
Make sure every foot is firmly on a tread, the ladder is at the correct angle, and the top rests against a solid surface. Close the stairs to other users while the work is under way, with signs or barriers at the top and bottom, but never lock or block an emergency escape route. If the stairwell is very high or the task is long, consider a purpose-built stairwell tower instead.
A ladder is designed to rest flat against a solid surface. Against a round pole, a tree trunk or the corner of a building, it has only a small contact point, and it can slide sideways with very little force. If you must use a ladder in these situations, fit a purpose-made accessory, such as a V-shaped ladder head or a pole strap for poles and posts, or a corner stand-off for external corners. Tie the ladder to the pole or structure as well, wherever possible.
For tree work, ordinary leaning ladders are rarely suitable. Branches move and bend, and the trunk is uneven. Tree surgery uses specialist equipment and techniques, and should only be carried out by people trained in them. For pruning and fruit picking, three-legged tripod ladders designed for uneven ground are much more stable than a leaning ladder. Whatever the equipment, never rest a ladder against a branch or anything that can move.
Where the top of the ladder rests matters as much as where the feet stand. The top must rest against a strong, solid surface, never against something that could break, such as glass or a plastic gutter.
Where a window cannot be avoided, use a stability device that spreads the load across the frame or wall. Both stiles must rest evenly, so the ladder cannot rock or slide sideways.
Where a ladder is used to get from one level to another:
Ladders are often used to get onto a roof, and the moment of stepping on and off is one of the most dangerous parts of the climb. The ladder must be tied, and must extend at least one metre above the landing point, so you have a firm handhold. Step off sideways onto a secure surface, never over the top of the ladder or onto a gutter. Once on the roof, the dangers change.
Falls through fragile surfaces, such as roof lights, old asbestos-cement sheets and some metal or plastic panels, kill and seriously injure workers every year. Many fragile materials look solid, especially when they are dirty or painted over. Never step or lean on them. Work on or near a fragile roof needs a planned method, such as staging, crawling boards, covers or safety nets, and edge protection where people could fall from the edge. If you have not been trained for roof work, do not go onto the roof.
Ladders are a common way into and out of trenches and other excavations, but the setting brings its own hazards. The ladder must stand on firm ground at the bottom, and be secured so that it cannot slip or be knocked over. It should extend about one metre above the top edge, so that you have a handhold as you step on and off. Place it close to where people are working, so they can get out quickly if something goes wrong, and never climb the trench supports or shoring instead.
Keep excavated soil, materials and plant back from the edge, because extra weight can make the sides collapse and send material down onto the ladder and the people below. Do not pass heavy tools up and down while climbing; lower them by other means. Before anyone enters, a competent person should confirm that the excavation is safe, and it should be checked again after rain or any change.
Some ladders are permanent, such as those fixed to the side of buildings, tanks, silos and machinery, or giving access to roofs and plant rooms. Because they are always there, people tend to forget that they need checking. Fixed ladders should be included in the workplace inspection routine, looking for corrosion, loose fixings, damaged rungs and missing handholds at the top. On tall fixed ladders, you may see hoops or a cage around the climbing space.
These can help you rest against something, but they do not reliably stop a fall. Some tall ladders have a rail or cable fall arrest system instead, which must only be used with the correct harness and connector, by people trained to use it. Always keep both hands free for climbing, and raise tools and materials separately. Where a fixed ladder is long, rest platforms should be provided, and the top should have a safe gate or guardrail.
A long ladder can be awkward to control, especially in a narrow corridor, on a busy site or outdoors in wind. Before lifting it, inspect the route from end to end. Look for doorways, uneven ground, people, vehicles, overhead cables and other obstructions. Decide who will lead and give clear instructions; one person should call each movement so the team acts together. Carry the ladder with its front end high enough to avoid striking people or objects, while keeping it under control and within the team's ability.
Do not carry it where visibility is blocked or where a sudden turn could sweep it into someone. At the work area, lower it carefully and check the ground and intended support points. When raising a long ladder, use a controlled method suited to its size and the available space. Keep bystanders away, and never let go until it is stable and secured. If the ladder is too heavy, too long or difficult to manage safely with the people available, use suitable lifting help or choose another access method.
In this module, you have learned that:
A ladder must stand on firm, level and clean ground, at 75 degrees, using the one in four rule.
The best way to secure a ladder is to tie both stiles at the top. Footing is the last resort.
A ladder used for access must extend at least one metre above the landing point, and stepladders must face the work.
In the next module, we will look at how to climb and work from ladders and stepladders safely.